Friday, 31 July 2026

Episode 5 - Wrong Direction

My passport was placed sincerely back in my hand by a gruff Moldavian border guard and I breathed a sigh of relief.

Then when we crossed the border, a couple of Romanian border guards bundled into our cabin - they checked the documents of my roomies - the underwhelming Italian couple and the un-naturally hairy Romanian man, then it was my turn.  I handed him my passport with trepidation.  He looked at me; he looked at the photo; he looked at me; he looked at the photo.

"It's me, but my ears are different! See, somewhere in Romania there's a small creature flying around with a chunk of my ear cartilage.  Now my ears are not symmetrical'.  

He just stared.

'I go, I come back', he confirmed, then disappeared.  He came back five minutes later, with a huge antique camera which looked as though it had just been swiped from a museum of ancient relics.  

'I need to take picture', he said, pointing the giant lens at me.  I froze, was temporarily blinded by the flash, then he was gone.  

The train started moving again, so I headed to the buffet car.  There is nothing like sipping a cold Moldavian beer on the Chisinau to Bucharest overnight train, in the buffet car, in the middle of the night, particularly when you have been admitted back into Romania, despite having non-symmetrical ears.  

I fell into conversation with a team of young Italians who were on an adventure through Romania, Moldova and then to Turkey.  

'We are all students in our 20s', one of them told me as we chatted.

'I used to be in my 20s', I told them.  

'How old are you now?'

'I've been 36 for some years now'.


On several street corners in Moldova there are cages of puppies and kittens, supervised by people from an adoption charity trying to find good homes for them.  I wanted to scoop them all up and take them home.  There were also lots of very old people begging outside the cathedrals which troubled me.  I'm not sure what WizzAir would say if I turned up with three kittens, four puppies and seven very old people, but we'll see.  I'm good with compression socks.  

I alighted at Bucharest North, which is the exact opposite of Chisinau as stations go.  Bucharest North station is buzzing with noise, music, beeping sounds, train horns as they depart every few minutes, flurries of footsteps as people of every description dash in different directions.  Chisinau has two fish tanks, a double bass, two pianos, and two trains a day.  

Intent on taking a bus back to my little hostel, I wandered around looking for the M1 which would take me very close.  I wandered purposefully as though that is possible, failing to find such a bus.  On double-checking, M in fact stands for Metro and the M1 is an underground train, not a bus.  What a muppet.  

I followed the signs for Gare du Nord, purchased myself a ticket and was soon on a train.  True to form, I realised fairly soon that it was going in the wrong direction. In fairness to me, I did this twice on the District line earlier this month, once with 30 kids, so it is easily done.  The District line is a mystery to me.  

I enjoyed the best shower of my life, made coffee and cracked open a croissant, then slept like a baby (a compliant, sleeping baby, not the difficult sort) for a couple of hours.  

I then did some reading and some actual tangible work on my dissertation.  Just 15,000 words stands between me and an MA and I am slightly closer to 15,000 words now than I was this morning.  

I decided to go and have a filling dinner as I'd had train picnics for the last couple of nights, so I headed to Bread and Butter restaurant, and enjoyed a delicious dinner whilst watching the world go by, in thirty degree heat.  I had an accompanying salad of indeterminable vegetables.  

I spoke briefly with a young German-speaking couple next to me who asked if I knew of any good bars locally; I said that I was not cool enough to know things like that but there are a lot of bars in the Old Town.

Then suddenly, the underwhelming Italian couple from my train carriage appeared, out for an evening wander in Bucharest.  Of all the streets in all of Bucharest, there they were.  They were still underwhelming.  

I'm off on a mini-adventure tomorrow, to Bulgaria! I tried to take a group there in 2020 - everything was booked but then the world shut down, and the time which should have been used for sorting the specifics, was used for sorting the insurance claim.

Goodnight team.  

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